Birding in North-west Scotland by Dave Pullan, from Birding Scotland

The following article is reproduced with permission from Birding Scotland magazine. For more information about subscriptions and back issues email Harry Scott.

Some of Scotland's most dramatic scenery can be found in the north-west, along with some of its most spectacular birds, such as Black-throated Diver and Golden Eagle. Most of the breeding birds have been well surveyed by teams of fieldworkers from various conservation bodies, but, due to the area's remoteness, much less is known of its potential for migrants and vagrants.

The following account attempts to summarise some of the best birding areas along the coast of the north-west Highlands, from Gairloch in Wester Ross to Handa in Sutherland. Common birds to be expected anywhere include Red-throated Diver, Shag, Eider, Red-breasted Merganser, Buzzard, Black Guillemot, Rock Dove, Stonechat, Raven, Hooded Crow and Twite. Black-throated Divers and Golden Eagles shouldn't be too hard to find with persistent scanning of likely lochs and ridges. Ptarmigan, Dotterel and Snow Bunting occur on the higher mountains but are difficult to reach.

Gairloch and Loch Ewe

Glaucous and Iceland Gulls visit the pier at Charlestown (1 mile south of Gairloch) in the winter. Somewhat rarer, an adult Bonaparte's Gull was at Strath Bay, Gairloch in July/August 1990. About 10 miles north-west of Gairloch it is possible to drive out to the lighthouse on Rubha Reidh, by taking the B8021 Melvaig road. This ought to be a good seawatching point, and on calm days in late summer, Minke Whales and White-beaked Dolphins are regular.

Farther north from Gairloch, on the A832, are Poolewe and Loch Ewe. This large sealoch is good during the winter months for three species of diver and Slavonian Grebe. Try viewing from the B8057, which follows the western shore, or the Mellon Charles road on the opposite side.

Gruinard Bay

This area has become something of a diver mecca, where four species of diver can be found in a day during the winter (in breeding plumage towards late April). The first White-billed Diver was on 1st February, 1994, and it stayed until early May. Two birds were present side-by-side in March 1995, and single birds have been seen again in early 1996 and early 1997. The majority of sightings have been just outside the bay on the north-west corner at Rubha Beag. From Laide (on the A832 at the south-west corner of Gruinard Bay) follow the unclassified single-track road to the car-park at Mellon Udrigle. Walk north along the coastline beyond the houses for 3/4 of a mile to NG896969 and scan out to sea in the direction of Priest Island.

Great Northern and Black-throated Divers (both often present in double figures, with Red-throated less numerous) can be seen from virtually any viewpoint around the bay. The jetty at Laide sometimes offers close views. Slavonian and Red-necked Grebes occasionally turn up in the winter but are scarce.

Recently there have been some sightings of White-tailed Eagle around Gruinard Island - try scanning from near Mistag on the east side of the bay.

East of Gruinard on the A832 is another large sea loch - Little Loch Broom. This is another good area for Great Northern and Black-throated Divers in winter. The muddy shore and creeks near Dundonnell are good for Greenshank in early summer. A male Black-headed Bunting was at Camusnagaul in June 1988.

The mountain ridges between Little Loch Broom and Ullapool are worth searching for Golden Eagle.

Ullapool

In recent years numbers of white-winged gulls in winter seem to have tailed off at Ullapool, possibly due to changes in fishing practices. However, there are usually at least one or two of both Glaucous and Iceland between December and March (and sometimes throughout the year). The harbour itself is an obvious place to look, but the best location is where the Ullapool River flows into the sea on the north side of the town. Here, mixed flocks of gulls gather (except at high tide) on a shingle spit to roost and bathe.

Three miles north of Ullapool on the A835 is Ardmair. Glaucous and Iceland Gulls regularly turn up here in the second half of the winter. It is also a good place for Black Guillemot and Great Northern Diver.

Reiff

About 21 miles north-west of Ullapool, this low lying headland is another potential seawatching point which is also good for cetaceans (Minke Whales and White-beaked Dolphins are almost certain on calm days in late summer). Pomarine Skuas have been reported passing here in spring, and from late June this is probably one of the best mainland sites for seeing Storm Petrels anywhere in Scotland. Large numbers breed on the nearby Summer Isles, and birds can be seen off Reiff during the day. Great Skuas and Greylags also breed on the Summer Isles and can be seen at Reiff too. Black Guillemots are common on the sea. The freshwater loch at the end of the road is very good for Greenshank in the summer. Ringed Plover and breeding Dunlin are very common, while Whimbrel pass through in May.

To get to Reiff turn left off the A835 at Drumrunie and follow the single-track Achiltibuie road. This road takes you through spectacular scenery with Ben Mor Coigach (a Scottish Wildlife Trust reserve) on the left and Stac Pollaidh and the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve (Scottish National Heritage) on the right. These reserves are huge and difficult to access but scanning from the road can produce both Red-throated and Black-throated Divers in the summer, and Golden Eagle throughout the year.

Point of Stoer

The Point of Stoer is about nine miles north-west of Lochinver (take the lighthouse road) and, again, should be good for seawatching. Sabine's Gulls have been recorded in September, and May skua passage is likely. A White-billed Diver was seen in November 1993, and a Rose-coloured Starling nearby in July 1995.

Handa

Handa Island is a Scottish Wildlife Trust reserve, less than half a mile from the mainland. It is open to the public during the summer months from early April. Small boats ferry visitors over the short crossing from mid-morning to mid-afternoon, giving time to walk a circuit of the island. This circuit takes in Arctic and Great Skua colonies - close views guaranteed - as well as impressive seabird cliffs with breeding Fulmars, Shags, Puffins, Guillemots, Razorbills and Kittiwakes. Close views of Black Guillemot are certain on the crossing. A day on Handa is an excellent experience. The boats leave from Tarbet, which is reached by turning off the A894 between Scourie and Laxford Bridge. Freshwater lochs in this area sometimes hold Black-throated Diver in the summer, and Corncrakes have recently been heard near Scourie again after disappearing for several years.

Seawatching from Handa has produced three records of Mediterranean Shearwater in July and mid-August, 1 Great Shearwater (September, 1973), several Long-tailed Skuas in May and early June, and also Pomarine Skuas (including 74 between 1st and 5th May, 1979). Other migrants that have been recorded on Handa include Little Bittern (May, 1995), Bluethroat (May, 1985), Ortolan Bunting (May, 1985 and May, 1996), Black-headed Bunting (May, 1991) and Red-headed Bunting (June, 1975). Nearby, birds seen near Scourie have included Yellow-browed Warbler (November, 1980), Rose-coloured Starling (September, 1996), Black-headed Bunting (June, 1990) and Red-headed Bunting (May, 1972).